On July 15 we headed to Edinburgh from Dumfries via Carlisle. We continued to see some of the stress on the British transport system that we’d been reading about. The persistent threat of strikes and the severe heat wave threatening Europe have pushed British transport to the brink. Our train from Carlisle to Edinburgh was delayed due to staff shortages and announcements of train cancellations were becoming the norm rather than the exception. Travel insurance is looking more and more necessary. Once on board, we had a relaxing journey and made it to Edinburgh on Friday afternoon. We walked around Waverly train station and headed to the Scottish National Gallery to see the Monarch of the Glen. Then we went to stay with friends in North Queensferry near the Forth Bridge. The world’s first cantilever bridge, it remains a stunning piece of rail architecture and is still used for both passengers and cargo (and selfies, according to Alexander). We read that the original bridge opened in March 1890, cost 3 million pounds, and took “the labour of 5000 men day and night for seven years” to build.
On Saturday, we got up early to visit Edinburgh Castle only to find out that tickets were sold out for the day. So we walked the Royal Mile, visited Adam Smith, tried on Scottish attire, and then toured Holyrood Palace. At Holyrood, Alexander played dress up as Charles II and we listened to the fascinating story of Lord Darnley and his plot to kill Mary Queen of Scots’ private secretary David Rizzio. On the spot of his death, where he was reportedly stabbed 57 times, there is a plaque in tribute and his dried blood from 456 years ago. Lots of palace intrigue and history on Saturday afternoon.
We had lunch at Volvona and Crolla, a delicious Italian restaurant and deli that’s been an Edinburgh staple since the 1930’s. And then we took an open topped bus tour around Leith and the Ocean terminal in the north of town.
On Sunday morning we left Edinburgh and drove to Stirling, home of Stirling Castle and the William Wallace memorial. We learned more about Mary Queen of Scots, Bonnie Prince Charlie, and the Jacobite revolution.
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